More engine running video

Fire up and running video of engine.

Fire up!!

Finally the engine is alive! the recent weeks have been really busy at work, leaving not so much time for hobbing and delaying the fire up. But at last the final bits were assembled and after a few mods to the fly wheel the engine run for first time.

The progress from the previous post have only been a new flywheel and the preliminary exhaust manifold. As you can see the engine is fixed in a very crudely manner, which will be changed to make it safer to operate and extra stuff around it (gas tank, etc) properly secured. Obviously the white cable will go away too.

I will make a better and longer video and post it after everything is adjusted. It is mainly tuning the carburettor settings to achieve the full performance that hopefully is in it.

Progress

Almost there! just last checking to do and all will be set for the first fire up!





The spark plug was tested with quite nice results as shown, and for sure the spark will be powerful
enough to ignite the fuel-air mixture.

Another development was the assembly of the carburettor inlet onto the engine head. This part is made in RP (Rapid prototyping). In particular, the material of choice is RP SLS Carbon, and was outsourced. The cost was £23 for 1 off.

Spark plug

The spark plug is finally finished. The requirement for a custom spark plug is due to the design of the combustion chamber. In order to get the maximum port area the valves use the maximum area available. The off the shelf spark plugs are too big to allow such big valves and so a custom spark plug was required.

The body of the spark plug is made from stainless steel, which is turned, milled and threaded, and finally swaged to capture the insulation components and electrode. The thread is M5, and extra long thread section reduces the chances of wearing out the thread on the engine head. In the V8, I would probably opt to have a wire insert to reduce even further this risk.

The insulation materials are machined from Macor, which is a machinable ceramic. It machines quite nicely, but because of its brittleness one has to be extremely careful. Wall thickness's in some cases is <0,5mm. On the thread section of the spark plug, the diameter of the insulation is Ø2mm and electrode Ø1mm. There are two ceramic parts in this spark plug, with a flange that gets locked by the swaging process. To achieve a leak prof part, adhesive is added during assembly, which seals any void produced by machining tolerances.





A dedicated swaging tool had to be made to press the collar onto the ceramic insulation. There is not much pressure anyway, as the adhesive also helps keeping the bits together and did not want to crack the delicate ceramic material.

Another tool required is the special 4,5 mm spanner socket that is used to fit the spark plug onto the engine head. This is made form a M6 x 120 cap head bolt which cut down in length. The spanner socket for the spark is broached onto the stud section with a custom made broaching tool. The tool is quenched to achieve the required hardness.

All in all, only a few details are left to make: installation of ingnition system (CDI), test bench, carburator assembly.

The engine is looking good so far!

Engine head progress 2

Hi there, it´s been a while after last post, but batteries fully charged after the summer break. Hope you all had a good time too.
The engine head has been assembled and is almost completed. All four valves, rockers, cam shafts are working together. All is left is the valve lapping and cups to be ground. I pretend to adjust cam clearance by grinding the cups, so each cup will have to be numbered according to its position and valve.
The valve seats were already cut with an HSS custom made tool. This tool is basically a countersinking tool with a pilot steam to achieve good concentricity with the valve guide. I am sure most of you use the same system.
I hope I can grind the cups and lap the valves this weekend, so I will be posting more pictures soon.

Engine head progress

This weekend I have made some progress with the engine head. The inlet and exhaust ports have been polished and valve seals have been pressed in. It all went quite nice together. I used some Dremel tools and polishing compound to polish the ports in the inside, with extreme care to not damage the mating surfaces for the inlet and exhaust and valve seats. On the pictures you can see the dedicated fixtures to press the valve seats and guides into the head.

The upper assembly with the camshaft carriers and little brackets has also been put together. As the top of the engine will be open, it will be possible to see any leaks or other issues inside the head. The brackets are only for the test engine as the V8 holds the cam shafts with the head covers. 

The valves were almost finished, I just had to grind the top and bottom surfaces to final dimension. So they are ready to install. The material for valves is SS AISI 316.

During the week I expect to finish the bores for the cam shafts, including the bronze split bearings installation. Also the countersunk on the valve seats.

Lower engine assembly

I have virtually completed the lower assembly of the engine. The crankshaft is finished and finally assembled with con rod inside the crankcase. 

You can see that the crankshaft has 6 holes on the counterweight area. These will be filled with tungsten bars. This is to adjust the amount of weight on the counterweight as well as keeping the inertia low. On the V8 one I might not do it as it is a lot of hassle as the tungsten is really hard to work with. I have to use a right angle grinder and because the pieces are so tiny it is quite a dangerous job.

The bolts to on the con rod are M2. I will replace the current stainless steel by 12.9 steel ones.

The cylinder liner is from a Lapped internal H7 steel off the self tube, that I turned to fit the aluminium engine block. It is not hardened but I hope it will be just fine for this test engine.

I am going to use gasket sealant, like Loctite 5800 as I do not plan to use any joints on between the crankcase and engine block.

Piston machining and con rod assy

Today I have finished machining the piston. It has been a long process which started on the lathe and has finished on the milling machine.The difficulty of manufacturing this component lies on the amount of features and accuracy required.

In terms of design it is a complex exercise, especially as boundary conditions are unknown at this stage. I have based the loads for a max. of 14000 RPM for inertial loads, pressure cycle is based on a conventional 4 ST IC engine, but adjusted to the IT3 engine. The piston is subject to 3000 g at 14000 rpm

All in all, the loads the piston see are 820N in compression and 391N in tension (that is 83,6 Kg, 39,9 Kg). This is quite extreme and is mainly due to inertial loads and pressure gradients from the combustion cycle. Temperature wise I have estimated 250C, which reduces the material strength. The diameter has been reduced to account for expansion of the piston with temperature.

The piston pin has a slight tight fit on the piston and H6 on con rod. The piston pin is secured by two elastic clips that sit on a groove. The groove is machined with a custom made tool, as shown in the next pictures. The initial development of the piston will focus understanding better the boundary conditions (RPM, temperature, etc) and how the piston performance is affected (wear on friction surfaces, distortion, etc)

Above is the piston blank after turning operations (right) and milling fixture in PA (left)

This is the piston during machining on the 3 jaw chuck used to fix it.

Above is the custom made cutter to machine the piston pin clip groves.

Piston and con rod assembled. As you can see there are neither piston rings nor piston pin clips. The con rod bolts are not final ones either. Piston rings are off the shelf from Honda. there will only be 2 compression rings, and no lubrication ring.

Next is the final stages of crankshaft machining and assembly of it with cylinder and con rod / piston assembly. With that I should be able to start feeling the compression of the piston moving up and down the cylinder.

Con rod machining

The con rod has been machined!! it looks quite good, prior polishing and final work on the bearings. On the sequence below you can see the different machining stages.

The material used on the con rod is 7075 T-6. The bearings are LM-7 Zn bronze, with the top one pressed in and the main one being split. Bolts are M2.

At 14000 RPM the con rod sees a maximum compression load of 820 N and a maximum tension load of 391N. Coefficient of safety is n = 4,4 static and n = 1,1 fatigue (infinite life). I expect fatigue wise it will be safe as 14000 RPM seems quite optimistic for the first test engine for both speed and life time.

After polishing the part will look even better. I will polish it to remove all the tiny notches and sharp edges which will make it look better and improve fatigue resistance.

I will make the split bearings with a tang on each one, and a dowel pin for the real engine. This will improve fitting quality and repeatability of the tolerances.

Next part is the piston, which is one of the most exciting parts of the project.

Renault F1 monocoque manufacturing

Just a little insight on how to make composites. This post is related to the Renault R26, already finished some years ago, to show what can be done in composited by the model engineer.

I have to say, this process is very similar to the real thing, and I can assure you I know what I am talking about.

The process is usually the same for every part: design component - design tooling - patterns - moulds - laminating - trimming/assy. The first two are down to you, so we will focus on the actual making-bit. Just a brief note on design. CAD is very powerful to assist production engineering with templates, 1:1 plots, etc. it is not just the 2D drawings, not to mention CAM, so worth considering for any project.


As an example, see below the engine cover and monocoque. Both made in a similar way: basically, the pattern is the actual shape of the part, but made form a solid block of material that we can shape easily, in this case MDF (wood). The better the pattern quality, the better the mould quality and therefore the part. Patterns usually last only one pull, but enough to get a mould, from which several parts can be made. The mould is the negative shape of the part, if you see what I mean.

Paper templates (1:1 plots) are made which are the cross sections of the part to make at certain heights. Each section correspond to a MDF board level that will be stacked to create the rough volume.
After cutting the boards, they are bonded using glue. You might want to pin them to guarantee alignment.

Rough cuts are made using chisels, files, saws, etc. This is quite an elaborate process. Use templates in all the directions required to ensure the shape is within tolerance. Make as many templates as you need, e.g. cross sections every 20 mm. 

Finishing touches using a Dremel. Use also sanding paper to shape by hand the form. Remember that after this all the little holes and gaps will be filled with body filler, which makes things easier at this stage.

Body filler and paint are applied after the finishing touches. At this stage, the surface has to be spotless as this is exactly how the part will look like.  Use good quality paints to prevent reaction with the epoxy resin and release agent. I recommend car body panel paint.

 Apply the release agent and start laminating. In order to draft the part, a several mould pieces mould might be required. See below how to make the splits using panel board to create the bolting flanges. Use plasticine or other paste on the corners to seal the edge of the board to the part. As cure occurs at room temperature, you can use almost anything. Do one mould piece, cure it, and remove the board from the next section to make another mould piece. This has to be repeated as many times as required until all the mould pieces are completed. Do not remove mould pieces during the sequences so the flanges match perfectly from one mould piece to the other. Drill the mould flanges for bolting the mould pieces together during laminating.

When the mould is ready, make the part with the required material and layup thickness. For most of body work, only 2-6 layers are required. Use more material on corners and bolting sections to reinforce high stress areas. The winglets and other elements of the engine cover where manufactured separately, even with different materials/processes, and bonded afterwards. This applies to chassis, floor, gearbox, etc. where many elements of the car are mounted too. Fit inserts and other bits inside during layup to create hard pads for tapping or bolting later on.

Use again body filler for finishing the part and achieving a nice surface. Prep the surface for paint and go for it!

Based on this process, all the other parts of the body work can be made. However, other processes like thermoforming, 3D printing, sheet metal fabricating are also required for particular parts, like end plates, brake ducts, etc. In real F1 world, the process is based on the same steps, but enhanced with the use of better equipment and materials. You might want to take a look at the pattern post  for a more advanced way to make components (http://bernimodels.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/tooling-wing-test.html). For the Red Bull 1/3 I am planning to use CNCed patterns, although for big body work pieces, I might stick to the process on this post due to size/cost restrictions of my equipment.